1. IntroBy now some of you people have been wondering how I’ve been making videos in Garry’s Mod with these resized Inkling “mini” models. I know some of you have wanted me to send you links to such models, but in truth I’ve just used Ragdoll Resizer to make them smaller and shorter, and so could anybody else. Therefore, I’ll have to have this video be a “how to” on the matter.
Before we begin, I must notify you all that even though you can call these models as “babies”, I would prefer it as “mini” (or something along those terms), as I was dead wrong to originally call these as “baby” forms because I saw after the first time I did this, an Inklings’ age progression formation (guess which one’s fan-made). Apparently, actual baby Inklings don’t even have a humanoid form yet; they just go as hybrids through their youth until around 14. …You people obviously know this, but this means you’ve been playing as teens, not necessarily “kids” (not that it matters). As far as these “minis” would go, we could just pretend that they’re under the effect of a Mini Mushroom, magic spell, or whatever. But, since the majority of people prefer the "minis" as babies, I don't mind that anymore.
To have a better understanding of this concept, I have an ongoing number of Folders on my deviantart account showcasing users' deviations for all sorts of characters as Inkling and Octoling "Minis".
I also have a playlist on YouTube dedicated to videos involving these Minis and babies too, including my own, naturally.
There's even a deviantart group dedicated to this concept as well. That's how popular it is.
Now we can begin.
Step 1: ResizingFirst of all is to scale the Inkling or Octoling model as a whole by half the original size; 0.50. Next, resize the roots, hips, spines, arms, forearms, thighs, and legs by 0.30 on their “Scale Y” selections only, in order to make them shorter (I originally went with 0.25, which is halved again, but I couldn’t select or find the bones with Ragdoll Mover). The program will actually set it to 0.28 next time you check, but it’s basically 0.30. Also, bonemerge their clothes after resizing them, as bonemerging them beforehand removes their clothes, meaning if you did do this beforehand, you’ll just have to waste time redoing it. And for those who have recolored clothes that they bonemegre to their Splatoon Inklings/Octolings, those models will sadly be automatically recolored with the gear. Sorry, but that’s just the way it is for the gmod program.
Now, since Inklings have two different primary hair styles (not counting the bonemergable hair props), then they have two different size changes.
For the normal Inkling Girl, set their left and right “Hair1” and “Hair3” bones by 0.30 on the “Scale Y” selection. Alternate Inkling Boy’s Hair bones are numbered differently, but are still in in the same positions as the Girls’; set their left and right “Hair1” and “Hair5” bones by 0.30 on the “Scale Y” selection.
For the normal Inkling Boy and alternate Inkling Girl models, set their left and right “Hair1” and “Hair2” bones by 0.30 on the “Scale Y” selection.
There’s no need to worry about making such extra alterations for Octoling models that have hair bones controlled by Advanced Bone Tool and not Ragdoll Mover, but for the ones that are, I’d set the left and right “hair_1_05” and “hair_1_09” bones by 0.30 on the Scale Y” selection.
Next, since some of you have sonas/OCs based off the Squid Sisters, I’ll do resize instructions for them as well.
Though they’re still taller than normal Inklings/Octolings, they still use the same rescaling of the limbs as the others. But because Callie’s hair is longer than all the other models’, you should rescale the left and right “Hair1”, “Hair3” and “Hair5” bones by 0.30 on the “Scale Y” selection. You can leave the Upper Hair bones alone if you’d like, but if you want to play around with that too then I’m not one to stop you.
As for Marie, she has no hair bones that can be selected by the Ragdoll Mover, so no need to worry about her either.
Oh, yes; mustn’t forget about their squid, octopus and kraken forms, must we? Sure, we could keep them as is but that would make it more like the character was just shrunken normally, at least to me.
So, as with the others, resize the Inkling squid as a whole by 0.50. Then resize the root and left and right “arm1” bones by 0.30 on the “Scale Z” selection.
All you need to alter for the Octoling octopus model are the root and waist bones, also by 0.30 on the “Scale Z” selection.
Kraken “minis” would look nice, at least to me, by having their “root” “head1”, “head2” and the left and right “arm1” bones by 0.30. Of course, since the “root” has the face, it might look goofy being a little smushed but at least the “arm1” bones will be accessible.
And hey, while we’re at it, let’s resize an Inkling squid and Octoling octopus so that it looks like the actual babies, shall we?
Resize either as a whole by 0.30.
For the Inkling, set the “root” bone by 0.20 on the “Scale Z” selection, and all arm bones by the minimum 0.20. Resizing any bone lower than 0.20 will crash the game, so use the Advanced Bone Tool addon (or the basic Resizer if you’re good at aiming) to rescale the arm bones to 0 in order to not have them show up at all because baby Inklings aren’t that developed yet. Sadly, at this size the models’ eyes, which don’t get rescaled, is going to make the it look a little freaky, so you’ll have to resize the eyes of everyone by -5, then get ready for some picture editing if you want to have the normal eye-sized characters with the altered eye-sized babies. Man, wouldn’t be so much more convenient if someone could just use some sort of program to make resized versions for usage like the different-sized models in other well-known model pack addons?
For Octoling octopuses (and these are just guesses), set the root bone at 0.20 on the “Scale Z” selection, the “Head1” and “Head2” bones to 0.20 on the “Scale X” and “Z” selections, and the waist to 0.20 altogether. You might want to rescale the eyes for them to but that’s your call.
Step 2: Posing and/or Animating
This is a severe pain in the @#$% to do, as the rescaled models’ bones remain intact of their original sizes. So locating and selecting them is severely frustrating and time-consuming. Get this, though; resized models have their bone selections perfectly intact until after using Stand Pose. …Unfortunately I found this out after I finished my 148th installment and I was like… [FACEPALM x2] But it is inevitable for these models not to be placed somewhere else immediately after being rescaled, especially since some rescaled models tend to break when their root bone goes through an “out of bounds” part of a map. …Or maybe that just applies to enlarged models… So there are now TWO methods to keep track of the bones.
1. I discovered while making my 148th installment that showing the models’ previous or next “ghost” frame using the Stop Motion Helper addon could help find them better while the user is holding the Context Menu key (the default bound key is “C”). However this is only if there are two exact frames side by side. So make some space on the frame position timeline somewhere where they won’t get in the way of the actual animating and keep it so that all bones can be accessed. Of course, even then, it can be hard to select/click on the wanted appendage. You’d probably have to move slightly to have the cursor to have it react or something.
2. Since these rescaled models’ bones stay aligned with their changed size until after affected by the Stand Pose, you can use Stop Motion Helper to record that frame before using Stand Pose on it in order to select the bone you want easily.
However, whichever method you chose, it still means you’ll have to go back and forth on the timeline to access the bones easier. …Every…single…time. So maybe you can move that specific frame on the timeline closer to the frames you’re working on or something…
There’s even more problems and glitches for these resized models to be aware of while working with them, though since I made this tutorial years ago, I think things have changed in the gmod program for such problems not to occur anymore but I'll list them here anyway for the "just in case" factor.
- Whenever coming back to loading a saved file, they could revert to their original sizes, visually, and sometimes with or without noticeable deformations, even though they’re still resized with the hard-to-locate-and-select bones. This naturally ruins the scene each time it happens, so a way to fix this is to keep a saved Stop Motion Helper animation file intact for that model. Then use Duplicator to copy the glitch model, then load that specific models’ animation data onto the copied model….every time.
- There will be times when the model’s appendages look awkward because of its original model’s size being in the map’s “out of bounds” areas. This problem would occur to the rescaled models already affected by Stand Pose, so the only alternating in those situations is to not use Stand Pose on it and rely on Stop Motion Helper and Ragdoll Mover, otherwise, those certain appendages simply won’t work.
I suppose that’s it, then (for now, maybe). Of course, this tutorial will all become null and void if/when somebody can use a special program (maybe Blender or something) to remake these Splatoon models with the resized changes already intact while still being able to bonemerge clothing props properly. That would be so much more convenient but still, since all models in gmod whose eyes are controlled by the Eye Poser tool keep their eye size intact not matter what size the models are, this is one of the few times when it actually works out for the Splatoon Mini characters because having those big eyes like that makes them all the more cuter.
Until then, have “fun”.